Dboys Spring Kar98K Plastic stock review.
Item was supplied from Tokyo Model Company. There communications were awesome; they understood my queries perfectly and shipped the item quickly. I ordered a few smaller items and no extra postage charges were occurred.
The postage was via EMS, I was promised the item would arrive within 3 days after ordering, they took my UKARA number for ease of importing the RIF. Unfortunately due to Easter there was a massive backlog with in the customs department and my parcel was delayed by 4 days. Finally was released and package. (VAT was £4)
The parcel was packaged in the rifles box with the lid turned inside out so the package looked like a plain box in case customs open the package. The box was wrapped in a good few layers of thick parcel paper which seems to be reinforced. The parcel also had a plastic parcel strap around it for further protection.
Upon opening the box, there lied this beautiful looking WW2 replica 98K, the plastic stock fooled me for a few minutes and I thought they had sent me the real wood version. The stock is in walnut colour and actually looks like real wood. The rifle has a nice weight to it; with all the black on the rifle being metal. I found this adds a nice touch to the rifle. It comes with 5 shells which look exactly like the real steel shells. Pulling the bolt out is easy, pushing it back in is slightly stiffer due to the cocking mechanism. The piston is made of metal. The spring guide looks metal. There is a fake magazine on the rifle, which actually moves, so ill see later what it does. I found the hop adjuster under the rear sight. Safety works nicely disabling both cocking the rifle and firing it. Unfortunately the sights are fixed for windage and only range is accountable for.
Loading the cartridges with 1 bb and then into the rifle takes a little time but with practice it becomes easier. You can load the 5 shells into the magazine through the bolt, or just feed one shell directly into the breach/chamber. Sometimes the shells jam as they are pushed forward, thus having to waggle the bolt back and forth till it goes in correctly. Once fired, pull the bolt back and the shell flies out, If you pull it fast the shell will fly quite far out of the rifle, if you do it slowly it will just fall nicely to the side of the rifle. I have found that the bolt will come out of the rifle (which is annoying) if the bolt is pulled too far, this is down to the level what activates the ejector and also enables the bolt to be removed has a too weak a spring on it. First test of the rifle, the rounds vary very differently, some fly high, some low, some curve to the left, some to the right, This will need to be sorted if I want to skirmish this as a traditional style sniper. I also noticed, some shots fly quickly, other really slowly.
I think that the O-rings on the shells will need replacing but ill have to strip it down to check. Apart from the range and accuracy this puts a smile on my face every time I use it. The hop adjuster works nicely and allows for fine tuning the range, Problem is with this is it seems to be highly sensitive.
A few problems I have noticed with the rifle are the bolt sometimes comes cleanly out the rifle, sometimes the bolt does not catch and leaves you with a un-cocked rifle, sometimes the ejector fails but is not that important and sometimes the shells jam.
The jamming problem looks to be a design flaw, where the ramp isn’t there and instead is a massive step the round must jump up to get into the breach/chamber.
The problem of the bolt coming out is due to the removal catch, it does not spring back fast enough and if you tighten the screw it only cures it for 2 or 3 cocks. I think ill look into taping it closed or something on those lines.
Accuracy and range will be down to the o-rings and hop/barrel sealing.
Strip down and improvements:
Strip down guide for the Kar98K
Remove the bolt by holding the ejector mechanism open
Remove the 2 screws from the bottom of the rifle and remove the trigger guard and magazine mechanism.
Remove the front for the stock by pressing the release button; remove the release button and then both parts of the stock from the barrel and receivers.
Punch the pin out from the back of the receiver, Undue the 2 screws and remove the back of the receiver from the front, including the spacer.
Punch the 2 pins out of the sight block/receiver, remove the barrel and hop from the receiver, watching out for the 2 ball bearings and little spring (for the hop adjuster)
Remove the ball bearing, hop rubber and barrel sealing rubber.
Remove the front furniture from the outer barrel.
Undo the screw that holds the barrel in and then remove the Inner barrels
Upon strip down, I found that the barrel was absolutely filthy dirty, along with it being in 2 sections, I was puzzled with this, the 1st section is 250mm long 6mm and the front section is 250mm long 8mm. This does not seem to be needed. I reckon a full 6mm barrel would be better suited in this rifle. The full length of barrel would be 500mm long; hop is 30mm from the start of the barrel. The problem with the shell ejecting side of this is that this makes the D-Boys Kar98K have effectively 3 barrels, making 3 possible air leaks. Checking the seal between the shells and barrel there is no air leak, the hop is a good seal also.
The seal between the shell and the piston is the only other weak link, replacing the o-ring with a better quality one should help sealing.
I still feel that a new 500mm barrel should be installed in this.
For the strip down of the bolt. Remove the one screw that holds the back middle part of the back of the bolt on and then remove the two screws and the complete back of the bolt, which will release the internals. I then cleaned all the grease out of the piston head which has helped improve the seal and compression.
For rebuilding the rifle, when it comes to the hop unit, remove the adjusting screw, and then you can put the ball bearings and spring in after its back in the receiver.
A fix for the bolt coming out looks simple. Drill a small hole into the ejector catch and attach a small screw into it. This will stop it moving and removal of the screw will enable the bolt to still be removed easily.
Once I had rebuilt the rifle, I replaced the rear o-ring on the shell and then test fired it, Range now was getting 40m, accuracy was still off occasionally but it was improved a lot,
I will now look into improving the accuracy of the rifle.
This rifle is great looking and gave me pleasure to use. Watching the shells go flying out the breach was the best part for me, but not greatly skirmish-able. The quality of the build is good but too much grease has been used. A couple of design flaws could ideally be addressed to make it better.
Once I had messed about with the rifle, cleaning the barrel, removing all the grease that’s not needed, this started to perform better. Once the hop is set it needs loc-titing in place but then performs well.
Build quality: 7/10
Value for money 8/10
Originally posted 2010-10-22 08:57:59.